A chat with Lionel Favre, Product Design Director of Jaeger-LeCoultre

An exclusive chat with the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Product Design Director, Lionel Favre, about the maison’s 2024 novelties, as well as the innovations in watch design behind them

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoultre showcased a collection of exceptional timepieces at this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva fair, with a particular focus on the Duometre line’s new models such as the Chronograph Moon, Quantième Lunaire, and Héliotourbillon Perpetual. The latter, in particular, comes with a triple-axis tourbillon and a redesigned pink gold case that pays homage to 19th century savonette pocket watches, combining classic style with cutting-edge technology.

In a nutshell, these timepieces exemplify the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to blending technical mastery with aesthetic excellence. To learn more about the maison’s journey this year, we spoke to the Product Design Director of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lionel Favre.

Can you give us a brief overview of your role and key responsibilities?
My role involves perpetuating the long, complex history of Jaeger-LeCoultre. It’s essential to deeply understand the brand and its DNA. I assist engineers and designers in staying true to this DNA while expressing their creativity. Our process is highly collaborative, with no single creative mind; everyone contributes. We have many discussions that lead to creative rebounds, fostering a spirit of innovation.

How does this year’s collection differ from last year – especially in terms of focus? We certainly noticed that the star of last year was the Reverso, while this year it seems to be the Duometre’s turn…
Our decision to spotlight a particular collection each year is based on several factors. Last year’s collection was more focused on the Reverso and the concept of the Golden Ratio. This year, we are focusing on the Duometre, with complex mechanisms including a chronograph, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar. These are watchmaking complications that emphasise precision, which is a fundamental aspect of our brand’s history.

With a diverse portfolio including the Reverso, Duometre, Rendez-Vous, Master, Polaris, the 101, and Atmos, it’s essential to highlight different lines and to provide visibility for each of these collections. We chose the Duometre as this year’s focus to reinvigorate the collection with a fresh case design and new models. Similar to the iconic Reverso, the Duometre is seen as a key pillar of our brand identity.

Speaking about the Duometre, how do you and your team approach the development of incredibly complex features like the triple-axis tourbillon in the Duomètre Héliotourbillon Perpetual?
The development of such complex features is a collaborative effort. The watch features an entirely new tourbillon construction, one that rotates on three axes to create a “spinning top” effect. We start with the design team and engage in regular meetings with engineers who specialise in multi-axis tourbillons. These discussions balance aesthetics, reliability, and precision. It’s a lengthy process to ensure that we achieve a reliable and precise result that also meets our design standards.

How do you express creativity and innovation in watch design while respecting Jaeger-LeCoultre’s heritage?
We are fortunate to have a rich history to draw inspiration from. Our goal is not to break the rules but to understand and be inspired by watchmaking traditions. We strive to create modern designs that still feel rooted in tradition. Our watches should always reflect this heritage while expressing a sense of modernity.

How does the extensive archive at Jaeger-LeCoultre influence your designs?
Our archives are a valuable source of inspiration. They help us understand the evolution of design and the techniques used in the past. While it can be challenging to choose from such a wealth of material, it’s also incredibly rewarding. Our design process involves finding harmony and balance, which takes time and numerous iterations. The archives provide a foundation that we build upon to create modern yet traditionally inspired designs.

On a related note, how do you balance the need for innovation with the importance of tradition in your designs?
Balancing innovation and tradition is key. We respect the watchmaking codes and traditions that define Jaeger-LeCoultre while introducing modern elements. This balance is achieved through a deep understanding of our history and the skills we’ve acquired over the centuries. Every design aims to reflect the tradition while embracing modernity, ensuring that our watches resonate with both the past and the future.

And how do you ensure that each new design maintains the maison’s famed consistency and coherence?
Maintaining consistency and coherence across our collections involve a careful balance of innovation and tradition. We have a collaborative process where ideas are rigorously evaluated to ensure they align with our brand’s identity. This includes regular discussions and feedback sessions to refine designs. The result is a cohesive collection that honours our heritage while embracing new and innovative elements.

Is there a specific model that you believe best represents Jaeger-LeCoultre’s current direction?
The Reverso is undeniably linked to the maison and is a strong representation of our identity. However, we are proud to have a diverse range of collections, each with its own significance. From the Duometre, Memovox, Geophysic, which emphasises precision, to the Rendez-Vous for ladies and our grand complications, each collection reflects the core values and craftsmanship of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Let’s talk about the Reverso. What is it that makes the Reverso a must-have for so many watch enthusiasts?
The Reverso is an iconic model with a unique design that has stood the test of time. Its art deco style, the Polo heritage, and the ability to personalize it with engravings or other customisations make it special. The Reverso’s versatility and timeless appeal make it a must-have for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate both its historical significance and its modern relevance.

Last but not least, what recent trends have you noticed in the watch industry – particularly in terms of creative developments and consumer demand?
There is a growing interest in grand complications and a shift in the perception of watches from functional tools to objects of art. Collectors and consumers are becoming more educated and demanding high quality. They appreciate the intricate details and craftsmanship that go into creating complex watches. I’m also happy with the comeback of elegance. I feel that elegant pieces have become more important again. This trend is beneficial for us, as we have a diverse collection that includes many complex timepieces.