Cambodia is Angkor Wat – and much, much more. Scott Dunn Private takes Crystal Lee off the beaten path in a whirlwind tour around the Southeast Asian country for glimpses of its magic and mystery.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat is breathtakingly beautiful. In the span of an hour, the sky puts on a dramatic show of colours, from midnight blue peppered with stars to a burst of vibrant pink and fuchsia. From where we stood at the edge of the pond, the still water reflected the stunning scene as the day broke, amplifying its magnificence.
That isn’t even the most impressive sunrise at the temple, Pheakdey, my incredibly knowledgeable guide, tells me. During the equinox, which happens every year in March and September, the sun rises exactly on the peak of the central tower, revealing one of the many astronomical alignments of the vast temple complex.
Just before light flooded Angkor Wat, Pheakdey led me to a quiet, more modern ashram in the vicinity for a private ceremony. It was a lovely surprise to close an unforgettable trip – to be in the presence of a respected monk, in a world-famous site, and receive his blessings for a good year ahead. But this wasn’t entirely unexpected. After all, I was travelling as a Scott Dunn Private member, and extraordinary experiences with unparalleled access are part of the package.
No trips are the same with Scott Dunn Private. Members of this exclusive club by the award-winning tour operator are assigned relationship managers, who are backed by years of experience in travel planning, vast world-class connections around the world and a wealth of knowledge of destinations to create dream holidays for guests. This means going where few have gone without lifting a finger, whether it’s a discreet private visit to the Sistine Chapel, entering a Michelin starred chef ’s kitchen during full service, or discovering a hidden cove in the Cyclades.
Each getaway begins with a discovery chat – longer if it’s the first, to learn all about your likes and dislikes. As soon as our destination was finalised, my advisor Jean scheduled a virtual meeting for us to get acquainted. The questions were intimate: What time do you wake up? How active are you? Do you have any dietary restrictions? Are you a culture seeker or a nature lover? My answers would dictate the itinerary and future travel plans.
A little over a month before the trip, Jean arranged for another call, this time to go over the itinerary as part of a pre-departure briefing. Needless to say, she nailed the brief. I wanted history, heritage, street food, culture, architecture, nature, wellness and rare local experiences. Scott Dunn Private ticked all the boxes – and then some. I was also given a list of safety warnings: Avoid wearing jewellery or flashy designer pieces, don’t carry a purse or a backpack, keep my passport locked in the room, and don’t count money openly on the street.
First impressions can be somewhat deceiving. From the airport, I was whisked off to Raffles Le Royal, where I’d be staying for the next two nights. An architectural icon of Khmer, Art Deco and French Colonial style, the 94-year-old hotel, which Raffles refurbished and reopened in 1997, is a piece of Cambodia heritage, having witnessed important historical events and played host to royalty, foreign dignitaries and celebrities like actor Charlie Chaplin, former US First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy and French general Charles de Gaulle in its heyday. Being the most prestigious hotel in Phnom Penh, the property is a vision of grandeur and elegance, with painted ceilings, majestic chandeliers, pretty French windows and plenty of Cambodian objets d’art.
Outside, however, the capital presented an entirely different view, I discovered on the first tour of the trip with Vanarith, a bright young chap who runs his own agency. Phnom Penh is a city of extremes – of deep poverty and wealth, of corruption and kindness, of shanties and five-star hotels. The streets are grubby and uneven. People whizzed about at an unrelenting pace on motorbikes, beneath an uncontrollable mess of wires overhead.
“I hope you’re hungry,” said Vanarith, as we scooted off to our first stop in a tuk tuk. The next three hours was an eye-opening showcase of Phnom Penh’s vibrant street food scene. In a back alley around the Olympic Stadium, we slurped nom banh chok, a beloved Khmer dish of fresh rice noodles in a coconut-based fish gravy with fragrant herbs, vegetables, mushrooms, meatballs and fish. Then, we tried the punchy and spicy bok l’hong (spicy green papaya salad with rice noodles, peanuts, dried shrimps and marinated small blue crabs) and pot ling, an addictive, sweet dish of popped corn.
From a street cart near Bak Touk High School, we picked up small pancakes filled with chocolate and coconut. Snacks in hand, we strolled the local night market, where I got acquainted with maju kalok (sour fruits served with a spicy, savoury dressing) and crunchy deep-fried crickets (I didn’t eat them). Meat followed. Vanarith ordered skewers of chicken, pork sausage with kreung (Cambodian green paste) and fermented fish balls at a barbecue spot, and capped off our night at another eatery with grilled beef accompanied with a dip consisting of fish sauce, chilli, peanuts and lime juice. Dessert was banh ja’neuk, or glutinous rice balls with mung bean paste in a sweet soup of coconut milk, ginger and palm sugar.
The next morning, I meet Virak Roeun, an architect graduate, for another tour around Phnom Penh, this time focusing on its intriguing urbanscape. On traditional single-seat cyclos (pedal-powered rickshaws), we weave through the city’s chaotic streets, stopping to get up close with landmarks like the French colonial Central Post Office, Royal Railway Station and Xie Tian Gong temple – or to explore hidden corners on foot. Walking through tight alleys and run-down buildings, including an old church that has been carelessly converted to house multiple destitute families, Roeun explained how the city’s poor came to occupy abandoned shophouses, religious sites and old mansions after the Pol Pot era, as claims of previous ownership have no validity.
After an evening of vibrant street food, the second day was about the finer side of Khmer cuisine. For lunch, I visited Sombok, an elegant, artful restaurant run by twin-chefs Kimsan Pol and Kimsan Sok and their an all-women team. Here, freshness takes centre stage, and flavours are delicate yet complex. From the Prahok Ktis (minced pork, shrimp cooked with fermented fish, coconut milk and tamarind juice) to the green curry with chicken to the dessert with ice cream and caramelised bananas, every dish is plated beautifully. Dinner at Kravanh was equally delightful. Housed in a pretty French colonial villa, the upscale Cambodian restaurant serves classic dishes using sustainable and traditionally made produce. The Mekong lobster, which was gently poached in coconut and herbs and served with sticky rice, and the Som Lor Kor Ko, Cambodia’s national soup dish with seasonal Khmer greens and fish, are must-tries.
Between meals, I gained a deeper understanding of the country through conversations and drinks with two fascinating personalities. Over afternoon tea back at Restaurant Le Royal, Princess Chansita Norodom of Cambodia regaled tales of her extraordinary childhood during the Khmer Rouge regime, her ambassadorship with Raffles Hotel Le Royal, and her return home after decades of living overseas. Pre-dinner at the beautiful Elephant Bar at the hotel, I met Cambodia-based American journalist Danielle Olsen, who writes for Forbes Asia, BBC, Al Jazeera and more on subjects including environment, economy and identity. It was interesting to see Cambodia through her eyes, a researcher-reporter from far away that has a deep bond with the country. These exchanges may not be uncommon in my line of work, but it offered a glimpse of Scott Dunn Private’s incredible network of insiders who can add a new dimension to its travel experiences.
The next morning, I set off to Cambodia’s wilderness for Shinta Mani Wild, one of the top luxury tented camps in Asia. Located about three hours away from Phnom Penh, occupying a pristine 350-hectare river valley on the southern border of the Cardamom National Forest, the Bill Bensley property is famed for its glamorous interiors, breathtaking natural environment and serious conservation efforts.
There are two ways to reach the resort proper: You can climb 102 steps up the Eastern Tower and zipline through the canopy of trees into Headquarters, the resort’s hub. Otherwise, continue by SUV into the heart of the property. Regardless of the mode of transport, you’ll be greeted with views of the surrounding forest and a waterfall. If you’re lucky – like I was – general manager David Steyn’s canine shadow Bodi, who sometimes roams around the property on his own to stretch his legs, may be there to welcome you.
Given its remoteness, a stay at Shinta Mani Wild is all-inclusive. The menu at the restaurant changes daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with Khmer options and Western staples. You can book as many spa treatments as you’d like. As for activities, the resort’s dream team of guides will take you kayaking, foraging, mountain-biking, bird-watching, cruising on an expedition boat, to the valley for a sundowner and more depending on your mood. I opted to join Wildlife Alliance on their daily anti-poaching patrol, shadowing them as they run loggers out of their makeshift camps, confiscate homemade guns, chainsaws, and snares. The rest of my extraordinary stay was spent at the restaurant, the spa and in my gorgeous tent, which has a large deck overlooking the white-water river and a maxi bar with cocktail accessories.
Reluctant as I was to peel away from the therapeutic embrace of Shinta Mani Wild, I had a flight to catch for the last leg of my trip with Scott Dunn Private. In approximately four hours, I arrived in Siem Reap, unprepared for what I was about to see outside of the airport. Siem Reap, being Angkor Wat’s gateway city and the cultural epicentre of the country, is clean, structured and modern, albeit more touristy than Phnom Penh.
Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas was home for the next two days. Nestled in Siem Reap’s restored old French quarter and just a 10-minute drive to Angkor Wat, the 39-room property features chic, theatrical spaces withrectangular columns, recessed doorways, andelements inspired by ancient Angkor temples. Black, grey, and white dominate the rooms, accentuated by splashes of orange reminiscent of Cambodian monks’ robes. The most dramatic room types are the two-level villas, each with its own private pool, outdoor tub and rainshower that overlooks a serene green garden through floor-to-ceiling windows, and a sky lounge on the upper floor, where I had lunch.
Most people go to Siem Reap for the temples. No doubt visiting the ancient ruins are on the itinerary, Scott Dunn Private also has a few tricks up its sleeves. On a quad bike and together with a guide, I took the roads less-travelled to the Cambodian countryside, passing through local villages and working rice fields for a glimpse of the daily lives of the locals. At sundown, I switched from a four-wheeler to a two-wheel Vespa, for an immersive food tour that takes guests right into the hustle and bustle of the city. We began with tapas at one of Siem Reap’s top bars, Scribe, followed by visits to a few night markets – including one with a fun fair – for popular local snacks. The day concluded with dinner at a local restaurant famous for amok fish, a thick yellow curry with catfish served wrapped in banana leaf.
Being the star attractions of Siem Reap, the temples can draw a sizable crowd. With my Scott Dunn Private guide, Pheakdey, I got to see the mystical Ta Prohm, Ta Nei and Ta Keo at the quietest time of the day (read: early morning), avoiding much of the human traffic. Ensconced in the jungle, these otherworldly temples look straight out of a movie set, transporting you to new fantastical realms. Few hours later, we ended our morning excursion at King Jayavarman’s state temple of Bayon, known for its many captivating giant stone faces.
Back to the present, Paul Wallimann of Haven was telling me the story of how he started his restaurant, which is also a school for vulnerable young adults from shelters and from very poor rural areas. When he and his wife were working at an orphanage outside of Siem Reap, they realised that not all children at the orphanage are orphans, but lived there because their families thought they would be better off. Haven was born out of their desire to provide a safe place for young people like them to grow and transition into the real world when they come of age and have to leave the orphanage. By teaching quality work skills and important life skills, the restaurant empowers these young people by preparing for employment and helping them in their personal development. Yes, Haven has at its heart a noble purpose, but the food was tasty and wholesome, and the service touchingly sincere.
With a full heart and stomach, I proceeded to my next (and second last) activity on my itinerary: Exploring the margins of Tonlé Sap. The largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, it’s home to colourful floating villages and luminous mangroves. At the Port of Mechrey, a small rarely-visited fishing village on the edge of the great lake, Pheakdey and I boarded a specially-designed, shallow-draft boat originally used by park rangers to catch poachers. Through near empty waterways with remnants of floating villages and flooded forests all around, we zip across the water to the village of Prek Toal, a permanent floating settlement complete with schools and stores on water. Before sunset, we circle out to the edge of the vast lake on a lovely floating platform for a picnic. In the peace and quiet, I took stock of my trip, amazed by how much I’ve discovered. Coming from Singapore, six days may seem like a stretch for a country just two-and-more hours away, but Cambodia deserves to be seen. And with Scott Dunn Private, I experienced the multifaceted destination in ways I could never have, professionally or personally, and returned home feeling expanded, altered and inspired.
Words Crystal Lee
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