Cruise Control: From Paris to Normandie on the S.S. Joie de Vivre

We step on board a floating pied-à-terre, aptly named the S.S. Joie de Vivre, for a seven- day roundtrip cruise from Paris to Normandie along the Seine River – a journey steeped in wonder and quintessential French charm

My first impression of the S.S. Joie de Vivre, as it lays anchored in the Seine River, just a few hundred metres from the Eiffel Tower, is its (what seems like) imposing length. Yet, this latest offering in Uniworld’s stable of luxury river boats measures only 125 metres – a nifty size that enables it to slip through France’s winding channels to dock at moorings that are simply too small for larger vessels. Stepping on board would reveal several other pleasant surprises, too.

The S.S. Joie de Vivre, as its name suggests, promises to bring the “joy of living” – a love song to the French good life – to guests checking in to experience a river cruise that explores the charms of the northern French countryside in a leisurely, indulgent way along the Seine River. A quick exploration of the boat reveals handcrafted furniture and fine antiques, original artwork and signature accents, inspired by 20th-century Parisian designs from the ‘Golden Twenties’ to the free-spirited 1960s – all blending seamlessly with modern conveniences. Along with that comes a welcoming crew that goes out of their way to get guests settled in.

My Deluxe French Balcony cabin measures only 18 square metres but seems much bigger thanks to the large window and clever use of space. In total there are 16 of these cabins, 29 French Balcony cabins (same size), nine Classic cabins (15-17 square metres), eight Suites (24 square metres), and two Grand Suites (38 square metres). All staterooms and suites are decorated in a plush way with bright splashes and beautiful dark-wood furnishings and panelling, marble-lined bathrooms stocked with L’Occitane amenities, handcrafted Savoir of England beds (complete with 100-percent Egyptian cotton sheets), a pillow menu, and European duvets.

The suites are particularly impressive, each individually designed and decorated, while enjoying the services of a personal butler. The two Grand Suites (also called Royal Suites) come with an open-air balcony and a soaking bathtub. Both are decorated in their own unique style, with gorgeous wallpaper, fabrics, and furnishings.

Given Joie de Vivre’s overall bijou  sensibilities – it is only 11.4 metres wide –the boat fosters an intimate and cosy atmosphere, without feeling cramped. As it turns out, there’s much to explore on board.

I’m happy to discover my home for the next week has no less than four dining venues, almost all of them with a strong emphasis on French gourmet staples. The main restaurant, Pigalle, serves farm-to-table specialties from the surrounding regions in four-course dinners, along with hearty buffet breakfasts and lunches that are complemented by made-to-order options.

The food here is unpretentious and delicious, reminding me of the grand old dining rooms of Europe. Highlights on the lunch menu every day are the classic French favourites on the buffet line, while dinnertime has a more elegant flair with its four-course set menus that change every day.

Le Bistrot, only open for dinner, is a more intimate affair, mimicking a Parisian sidewalk café with its bistro delicacies – served up to pretty river views on the side. The showpiece is Le Cave des Vins, an exclusive epicurean experience where a seven-course degustation menu is on offer, with wines handpicked by the ship’s sommelier. In the evenings, spa venue Club L’Esprit transforms into Claude’s, a vibrant bar and entertainment venue. Claude’s glitzy and glamorous atmosphere is the perfect place to listen to local music, enjoy signature cocktails, or view a classic French film on select nights in an intimate cinema. Except for Le Cave des Vins, all dining options are fully inclusive.

At this stage, I come to realise that the best way to describe the S.S. Joie de Vivre is that it’s a floating boutique hotel; intimate in design and with top-notch service to match, every guest’s individual needs are attended to – unlike big cruises that tend to feel more like small cities with their sheer number of guests.

When it comes to activities on board, the biggest joy of river cruising is probably just enjoying the slowly passing landscapes, and you’ll want to spend most of your time on the large rooftop deck, watching quaint little towns and verdant countryside roll by – weather permitting. My cruise is in autumn, with days that are relatively sunny, but mornings and evenings that are on the chilly side. The on-board spa mentioned earlier, Club L’Esprit, is a wellness centre to relax and rejuvenate your mind, body and soul, offering an array of pampering and beauty treatments. There’s also a fitness centre, yoga classes, and workouts in the resistance pool for those in need of exercise – topped off with delicious smoothies afterwards at L’Esprit Bar. Joie de Vivre also features a giant checkers board, along with the obligatory loungers on the rooftop deck.

Best of all is the fact that the boat can reach stops missed out by larger ships, with each stopover along the route of the northern French countryside brought to life with included tours and excursions to immerse yourself in history – from the sights of the medieval capital of Rouen, Vernon and Caudebec-en-Caux, to Monet’s beloved home and gardens in Giverny, Normandy’s famed beaches and World War II landing sites, and a tour of the majestic palace of Versailles, once home to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. Guides are local experts who use QuietVox headsets to deliver informative talks.

My personal favourite turns out to be a visit to the port town of Honfleur on the Seine estuary. Colourful, half-timbered houses jostle for position on the quays, along with art galleries and restaurants. Packed with things to see and do, it’s no surprise that Honfleur is one of the most popular places to visit in this part of France. With a rich history that harks back to its origin as a trading port, the charming town’s heart beats in the Vieux Bassin, where wealthy families back in the day built their multi-storey homes, packed tight next to each other.

Although there are no longer any commercial ships or fishing boats in the Vieux Bassin (they are now moored to larger docks), it’s not uncommon to see yachts here. Shops fight for space along the quays in this extraordinarily picturesque setting, while restaurants set up their outdoor seating across the cobbles. The neighbourhoods on each side of the Vieux Bassin all have their own character; the neighbourhood to the east is full of interesting buildings including the Church of Saint-Etienne, while that to the west extends uphill to the splendid wooden church of Sainte-Catherine and Honfleur’s main art museums. The neighbourhood to the south of the harbour is more low-key but boasts some lesser-known gems such as the Church of Saint Léonard and the restored fountains.

Honfleur’s beauty has long attracted artists, with works of art to be found in the town’s many museums and galleries. Honfleur takes particular pride in its Impressionist roots – Claude Monet’s mentor Eugène Boudin was born in the town, and Monet and his contemporaries would often set up their easels at the Ferme Saint-Siméon on the hill above Honfleur, to capture the beautiful light of the Seine estuary.

Visitors to Honfleur can easily explore the Seine Estuary for themselves by taking a stroll through Honfleur’s public gardens to its very own beach or visiting the Chapel of Notre-Dame de Grâce to look out over Honfleur and beyond. Alternatively, take a boat trip out onto the estuary from Honfleur or even walk right up onto the Pont de Normandie bridge, which affords phenomenal panoramic views of the estuary from above.

There are plenty of opportunities to take part in more active pursuits too while on a cruise with the S.S. Joie de Vivre, such as cycling excursions along the riverbanks and golfing at Sainte-Mère-Église in Étretat, perched on the cliff high above the sea, making playing golf here a memorable experience and visual feast. The best of Paris is also on offer with a city tour and bike tour.

All featured tours and excursions are fully included in cruise packages, but for guests looking for something extra-special, a handful of very exclusive excursions have been curated under the “Masterpiece Collection” banner. For someone who has been to the City of Lights at least a dozen times and never had an opportunity to experience the legendary Moulin Rouge, this was my chance, finally, to tick it off the bucket list, and I wasn’t disappointed.

My travel experience both on board the S.S. Joie de Vivre and the on-land tours that complemented it turns out to be one of my most memorable of late. It’s probably the best way to experience the French countryside in a leisurely, and completely hassle-free manner. The boat itself felt like a welcoming home to return to after every on-land excursion, and my Deluxe French Balcony cabin quickly became a personal enclave.

I’m not surprised to discover that many of the guests are regular customers of Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, with some having even repeated the same cruises. Given half the chance, I know I would.

Words François Oosthuizen