CHANEL’s new ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection, launched in Monaco in June, not only celebrates sport’s beauty and passion, its challenges and triumphs, but also offers the most exquisite ensemble of gemstones ever presented by the maison – displaying the colours of the precious stones in all their vivid, luminous intensity.
Monaco: playground of the ultra-wealthy, famous, and bon vivants living large. The Principality – a few kilometres west of the Italian region of Liguria and bordered by France to the north, east and west – is undoubtedly one of the most glamorous enclaves on the French Riviera, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea. The sovereign city-state has also maintained close ties with CHANEL over many years.
In 1928, Gabrielle Chanel had a villa built high in the La Torraca area of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, which she named ‘La Pausa’ – her haven of peace. It was a superb, Mediterranean-style home surrounded by a vast garden and century-old olive trees.
Decades later, in the late 1980s, the historical Villa La Vigie, on the utmost point of Cap-Martin, hidden in the shrubs of Roquebrune, was acquired by Karl Lagerfeld – then Art Director of CHANEL – and became his favourite hideout during the European summers. Many photo shoots [for CHANEL] took place here, and as recently as 2019 the house used the white villa perched on a hilltop overlooking Monte-Carlo for the location to launch its Cruise collection, attended by Monaco’s Princess Caroline and her daughter, Charlotte Casiraghi (the latter who also happens to be an ambassador and spokesperson for CHANEL).
My mind drifts off to all these fascinating historical connections as I find myself at Villa La Vigie at a welcome reception on the eve of the launch of CHANEL’s ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection. The unlikely theme for a high jewellery collection – sport – is still somewhat of a mystery at this moment. The next day, however, all would be revealed.
“For creating the ‘Sport’ High Jewellery collection, I was inspired by CHANEL’s sporty style, which is such an integral part of the house’s history: the elegance of the line and the freedom of movement,” explains Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the CHANEL Jewelry Creation Studio. The result is 80 new high jewellery creations – 67 of which were revealed in Monaco – that move more closely to the anatomical reality of the body, in the same way sportswear does.
In fact, I discover that Gabrielle Chanel’s creations were defined by its sporty allure from the outset, and as early as 1921 she created a ‘Sport’ atelier within her Haute Couture House. Further evidence of her interest in sport can be found in the maison’s archives: a picture of Mademoiselle Chanel with English polo player Arthur Edward Capel CBE in 1910, her photographed playing golf near Saint-Jean-de-Luz (circa 1917), and a House of CHANEL business card mentioning “Couture et Sport” from the 1920s.
Fast forward more than a century later, these CHANEL design codes have held true and are now cleverly re-interpreted in the new ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection. By combining elegance and performance – through aesthetics, technique and the meticulous selection of exceptional gemstones – this collection of dazzling jewels celebrates for the first time [in the realm of high jewellery], the sporty style of CHANEL, and magnifies this momentum that highlights the allure of a woman: movement.
Combining audacity, unfettered creative freedom, technical mastery, and outstanding gemstones, this pure and streamlined collection is a celebration of the sporty characteristics that are so deeply rooted in the history of CHANEL.
All of this is very evident from the ‘Sport’ high jewellery collection, that’s been sorted in six themes: Sweater, Graphic Line, Chanel Print, Quilted Icons, Sporty 5, and Gold Slider. As a finale, the Icons collector brooches consist of star motifs that can be worn individually, or on a chain.
In an exclusive interview with Prestige, the creative mastermind behind the ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection, Director of the CHANEL Jewelry Creation Studio Patrice Leguéreau gives us the inside scoop.
How would you define the principal design codes of Chanel’s high jewellery creations? What guides the identity or style of the maison regarding these beguiling jewels?
At CHANEL, creation lies at the heart of everything we do. This freedom of creation is at the same time constantly nourished by an exceptional patrimony inherited from Gabrielle Chanel’s visionary approach. For this collection, I took my inspiration from the sporty style of CHANEL, so integral to the history of the maison. The aesthetics, the gemstones, and the incredible technical savoir-faire are really the key features of this new high jewellery collection.
What are you most excited about regarding your latest collection? How did this theme come about?
From the outset, Gabrielle Chanel defined her look by its sporty allure; she was herself loving and practicing sport and wanted through her creations to offer women this liberty of movement. It became evident to me to translate these notions of elegance, combined with performance and freedom of movement, into a high jewellery collection. However, what a challenge it was!
As the collection is refined and streamlined to create jewellery that embrace the body’s anatomy, similar to sportswear, it implied a strong complexity in terms of technical savoir-faire. Especially the development of certain elements specific to this collection, such as the lacquer chevrons, tube chain, slider, and carabiner clasp in the shape of the number ‘5’. Or when using new materials that are different from those traditionally used in the world of high jewellery, like carbon, aluminium, ceramic, and various coloured lacquers.
I would say I’m particularly proud of pieces like the Graphic Line Set, adorned with an amazing set of Kashmir sapphires that reflect the excellence of the collection. And the chevron line with its distinctive succession of Vs that echo the ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ collection created and presented by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932 – a motif can be seen on the ‘Comète’ necklace.
Together, the pieces reprise the graphic signature and technical features that make it one of the most outstanding sets within the collection: the clasp of the CHANEL 2.55 bag, used for the very first time in high jewellery; the transformable design of the solitaire ring; the bands of custom-cut rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds; and the CHANEL logo spelt out in full on the inner surface of the necklace and the earrings clips.
Do you have a personal favourite piece from this collection – a masterpiece that you think encapsulates the essence of the theme – and could you explain its significance?
A high jewellery collection tells a story at large – each piece contributes to the creative storytelling and all the pieces must be considered in their complementarity. All are essential and all are stylistically strong in my eyes.
However, if I had one to particularly highlight, I would speak about the CHANEL Print Cuff, which is very emblematic to me of this ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection. First, it is part of the ‘Print’ theme of the collection, paying tribute to the presence and design of the logo, which is a key element in sports. I wanted to, for the first time, approach it in an openwork-like version. Secondly, this cuff, like 20 other transformable pieces of the collection, offers multiple looks – in a diamond or carbon fibre version, or a combination of both. The use of carbon fibre required exceptional savoir-faire. It was moulded – which presented a number of technical complexities – and it was a real challenge to represent the lacy motif of the lettering via laser engraving on the whole of the exterior surface, without distorting the letters.
This hi-tech material allowed us to create a sporty cuff that’s both resistant and ultra-light. And I love the contrast of the white diamonds and the black carbon fibre – like a CHANEL signature!
With such a rich archive and so many sources of inspiration at CHANEL, how do you manage to achieve a perfect equilibrium between legacy (tradition) while still ensuring that a certain level of innovation is maintained?
Innovation, technical virtuosity, and excellence are intrinsically linked with CHANEL’s legacy – on an eternally contemporary scale. This collection is the perfect reflection of that idea; to always push the boundaries of creation through disruptive designs, technical innovations, exceptional gemstones, savoir-faire, and keeping this vision Mademoiselle Chanel infused in all what she has done: the allure of women, freedom of movement yet extreme femininity, transformability, and suppleness of the jewels. Plus, the creation that’s at the centre of everything we do.
Why do you think storytelling has become of such paramount importance in the luxury sector?
Every high jewellery collection tells a story. And what a rich story we have to tell – a strong legacy that allows us to always elevate the level of creation and to bring to life the most amazing creations, thanks exceptional savoir-faire. I really believe that stories are what connects us, in a strong emotional way. Because high jewellery is about emotion; a design, a stone, a colour, a technique… And when I create, I always think ahead about the woman who would be wearing the piece. In that sense, the story born between a client and a high jewellery piece is the most beautiful one!
Can you share with us something about the extraordinary craftsmanship of the artisans at your Place Vendôme atelier, and how do you preserve and pass this artistry on to future generations?
I have the chance to work every day with talented teams both in my Studio and at the Workshop at Place Vendôme – to discuss the jewellery pieces, and work in an environment punctuated by sheer excellence. And “time” is key, because there is no possible compromise on what we want to achieve, and knowing that a collection can take over two years to realise, from the design stage to the finished pieces. It’s like a journey of sharing and transmission. And I feel very privileged to have no limits in pushing CHANEL high jewellery’s creative boundaries. This is what is the most precious today, which needs to be definitely kept and transmitted on and on.
True to the deeply ingrained DNA of CHANEL, the ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection is characterised by a fluidity that conforms to and complements the anatomical reality of the female figure – a definite nod to how sportswear is designed. Many other similarities to the realm of sport are plentiful. While the chevron motif evokes rhythm and speed, the volumes are tapered, and the contours clean and smooth. Lines of colour infuse the creations with a dynamic energy.
The motifs and graphic design revisit Gabrielle Chanel’s symbols in a sporty version – the number ‘5’ is used in ‘Chronometer’ typography, the emblematic lion is set in a coat of arms, and the star represents a symbol of victory. Another exciting new addition is the CHANEL signature being introduced for the first time [into high jewellery creations] in the shape of an openwork imprint.
With their transformability and modular conception, the collection’s pieces form an ensemble that is light to wear and celebrates freedom of movement.
The ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection offers the most exquisite gemstones ever presented by CHANEL – coveted for their rarity. These gems are sourced meticulously from all the corners of the globe, resulting in precious stones with colours that burst in vivid, luminous intensity.
A set of five Kashmir sapphires, the fruit of several years’ research work, is a tour de force in itself. Two-tone and three-tone contrasts enhance these coloured stones,while their shapes subtly highlight the collection’s ergonomic aesthetic. The protagonist in the Graphic Line Necklace – a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 10.15 carats and set in white gold and platinum with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and onyx – is hands down one of the most dazzling on display, setting the bar high.
Another very rare and precious gem that can’t go unnoticed is the emerald-cut yellow diamond of 7.06 carats destined for the Quilted Stars Necklace, set in white gold, yellow gold, diamonds, yellow diamonds, sapphires, and onyx. One of the most sought-after gems in the world – a symbol of purity and perfection, and with beauty that is simply unmatched – the allure of yellow diamonds is undeniable.
In adopting a functional approach to jewellery, technical savoir-faire also creates its own signature aesthetic in an ingenious way. For the ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection, the capabilities of CHANEL’s master craftsmen in the maison’s Place Vendôme atelier were put to the test in the creation of exciting new innovations.
Connection systems create graphic flat surfaces, while quick release fittings borrowed from sports equipment become genuine clasps, no longer concealed but placed at the centre of the piece: a karabiner redesigned in the shape of the number ‘5’, a swivel clasp borrowed from the iconic 2.55 bag, and sets of buckles and loops.
CHANEL’s quilted motif, has been revisited in the style of openwork high- performance fabrics, becoming a supple mesh embellished with sport motifs. And a tube chain called a “sport cord” has been specially developed for this collection.
Another signature feature of these new creations is its combination of precious and hi-tech materials: aluminium, exceptionally light and resistant, takes on unprecedented new colours; carbon fibre, marrying low density with high resistance, creates an ultra-lightweight sport cuff; and lacquer expands the colour palette with shades matched perfectly to the hues of the precious stones it is used alongside with.
In a gallery space adjacent to Monaco’s über-glamorous Hôtel de Paris, 67 of the 80 creations of CHANEL’s ‘Haute Joaillerie Sport’ collection were presented with scenography depicting a decidedly sporty-chic theme. Creations from the six chapters – Sweater, Graphic Line, Chanel Print, Quilted Icons, Sporty 5, and Gold Slider – came to life in a roomy and clinical all-white space resembling a sport stadium, from a locker room set up at the entrance, stadium seating, and white umpire chairs. The jewellery creations were showcased in glass-free cabinets, almost like trophies, allowing visitors to peruse their extraordinary craftsmanship, dazzling gemstones, and ingenious transformability firsthand.
This story first appeared on Prestige Thailand.
Editor-in-Chief, Prestige Thailand
François Oosthuizen, the Editor-in-Chief of Prestige (Thailand), has a lifelong passion for design, artisanal craftsmanship, and the highest respect for the people responsible for creating all the beauty ..Read More
